Kaikoura to Hanmer Springs

Thursday, April 2nd. Bright and clear in Kaikoura, time to pack up again. The clothes are finally dry. The mountain and ocean views are so great, that we take a short drive to a lookout promintory for a last look from this vantage point on such a clear day. Before we leave, the home owner, Judy, stops in and we have a nice chat. She and her husband Phil have owned the house since 1983. They have 4 children and now live about 10Km to the north where they have an olive orchard and produce wonderful olive oil, which we have sampled while here. She also told us about owning a cow that got hit by a train, but that’s another story.

We have a short drive of about 80 miles south and inland, into the mountains to reach our destination of Hanmer Springs. This is a resort town in an alpine valley setting known for it’s thermal hot springs. We’ll only be here one night before heading back to our final destination, Christchurch, where we’ll be leaving for home in just a few days. We have had such a wonderful time, and don’t want it to end. We are trying to be in the moment and savor our remaining time in this beautiful country.

Hanmer reminds us of a Sierra town, with tall pine forests and mountain ranges on all sides. It is near a white water river, and a busy ski area. We are staying in a very nice 2 BR townhouse for the night on a hillside overlooking the valley. As usual Colleen has found this great place that is within walking distance of the “town centre”. We polish off a light lunch, after which Colleen and Ed go on a hike up the conical hill behind the townhouse for a panoramic view of the valley. Phil and Dianne walk into town to get more info on the hot springs, and before they know it they have bought an all day ticket to lounge in the hot pools, some of which are mineral enriched, others sulfurous. All are fed by natural sources, emerging from the ground at about 130 F, but filtered and cooled to 98-102 F in the bathing pools. D&P take a respite and meet C&E at a nearby fish and chip joint for some deep fried sea food (C&P), while D&E go with the veggie burger. The salty proprietress addresses Dianne as “the fussy one”, since she won’t eat chips fried in the same oil as the fish. This is the same woman who told her that “some vegetarians eat fish you know”. It’s been quite a challenge this whole trip for Dianne to get proper vegetarian food and adequate protein.

Properly fueled, the four friends head back to the pools for a long evening soak. The baths are quite popular with tourists from around the world. This is a fascinating place for people watching as well as a fine spa. We arrive back at the townhouse limp as noodles and enjoy a good rest after a brandy toast to thermal pools.