Friday the thirteenth is our last day in Dunedin. Colleen has a busy day planned for us. We get an early start and head out to The Otago peninsula which projects about 15 K into the sea just south of the city. It is the site of several charming coastal villages on the north shore facing the harbor and a long pristine beachy coastline facing south. Our itinerary for the day is to visit Larnach castle, the only castle in New Zealand. Then onto the Royal Albatross preserve, and finally to the Penguin Place, home to a colony of the very rare and unsociable yellow eyed penguin.
The day was cool with clear blue skies. The Otago countryside is hilly with emerald green pastures, with sheep sprinkled like sesame seeds over the terrain. The roads here as in all NZ are in excellent condition with little traffic. We have yet to see a pothole on a main road. Even the gravel roads are relatively smooth. There is no roadside litter that we can see. We find Larnach castle and its gardens to be an unexpected treat. The castle was built around 1870 to be the home of the banker, Wm Larnach and his family. This was a dysfunctional bunch with too much money. The women were greedy, the children bored and ungrateful by all accounts. The patriarch did not spend much time at the castle, away on banking and government business. In his life he had three wives die on him and in despair, he finally shot himself. The castle fell into disrepair and was neglected for many years. In the 70’s, the castle and grounds were rehabilitated by another wealthy family that went through the considerable difficulty of procuring most of the original furnishings. The castle is now privately owned and operated as an historic attraction. We most enjoyed a self guided tour of the well kept grounds and the European style gardens.
We moved next to see the Royal Albatross Preserve at the eastern tip of the Otago peninsula. This very large (wing span of 9-10 ft) Antarctic species is threatened like so many other sea birds. This sanctuary area aims to protect the hatchlings from predation and help them to survive the crucial early days of life. We were able to see dozens of these very large birds swiftly soaring and also some hatchlings from a wind protected viewing area.
Next, just down the road, we visited Penguin Place, home of the yellow eyed penguin. First we saw some adolescent birds at the little penguin hospital, then we were taken on an exciting bus ride to their beach side habitat and from there navigated through ingeniously designed trenches and blinds to get to their nesting areas. We saw one little yellow eyed penguin standing in the middle of the trail, cooling himself by holding his wings out. The rest of the penguins were out fishing or too busy to be seen.
Not yet ready to leave this beautiful place, we drove to another part of the wildlife preserve and followed a well tended trail to a landmark feature called the pyramids, two basaltic cones projecting out of the headland. The trail passed through sheep pasture, and I’m sure by the looks we got, those sheep knew we were just another bunch of tourists.
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About Me
Four Friends New Zealand Itinerary
March 5: Leave home in the late afternoon.
March 6: Don’t want to talk about it.
March 7: We arrive in Auckland where we have a 6 hour layover, hopefully enough time to take a taxi into town, look around a bit and maybe have dinner. Then we fly on to Christchurch, pick up our rental car and Ed, our designated driver after way too many hours of travel, will try to keep in mind which side of the road to use while driving us to our first night’s accommodation.
March 8: We wake up in our townhouse in downtown Christchurch. We will be within walking distance of Cathedral Square, Botanic Gardens, the Avon River, many art galleries and cultural attractions. We’ll take a walking tour of the city.
March 9 & 10: On to Oamaru, where we will stay for two nights in a backpacker overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Oamaru attractions include a Victorian downtown area built in the late 1800’s of locally quarried limestone, museums and galleries, a historic theatre production and Yellow Eyed and Blue Penguin colonies.
March 11, 12 & 13: Drive along the coast to Dunedin, with a stop at the Moeraki Boulders. We will be staying three nights in a Victorian Villa within walking distance of the historic Scottish influenced downtown area with many gardens, museums, galleries and historic buildings. During our time here we will also explore the Otago Peninsula with Blue and Yellow Eyed Penguins, a Royal Albatross Colony and Lanach Castle and gardens.
March 14: Drive along the wild Catlins Coast with many opportunities for short walks and wildlife viewing. We will spend the night in Invercargill.
March 15 & 16: We leave our rental car behind and fly to Stewart Island for two nights in New Zealand’s southernmost town, Oban. Here we will stay in a holiday home with ocean view, explore the Ulva Island bird sanctuary on a morning tour, then return after dark for a kiwi spotting tour. Other possibilities include hiking and kayaking, or maybe by now we’ll be in need of some time sitting and gazing out over the ocean from our cozy living room.
March 17: Fly back to Invercargill and reclaim our car for the drive to Te Anau, where we’ll spend one night in a motel unit with a view of the lake. In the afternoon, we’ll head across Lake Te Anau on a catamaran for a tour of the glowworm caves.
March 18: We’re up early for the drive to Milford Sound in Fiordlands National Park. We’ll pass breathtaking scenery with many opportunities for short walks and picture taking. We spend the night in Milford, in two riverside chalets. And though we'll be far away from our youngest offspring, today we'll be wishing Stefan our love on his 19th Birthday.
March 19: Up early again for a cruise of Milford Sound where we’ll see steep mountains rising directly up out of the sea, stunning waterfalls that crash down into serene waters and wildlife such as dolphins, seals and penguins in their natural environment. After our morning cruise, we’ll drive back to Te Anau for another night in our motel accommodation. We will call Stefan today to wish him a happy birthday because today in New Zealand is yesterday in California. Happy Birthday Stefan!
March 20 & 21: Drive to Wanaka, a town at the feet of the Southern Alps on the shores of Lake Wanaka and gateway to Mt. Aspiring National Park. We’ll spend two nights here in a holiday home with a mountain view.
March 22 & 23: One of our longest drives, about 4½ hours, and one of the most beautiful, through Haast pass in the Southern Alps to the West Coast. We will be staying two nights in the quiet town of Okarito, population 30-ish (34-ish while we are there.) Within a half hour drive are the more touristy towns of Franz and Fox at the bases of Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers in Westlands National Park. Closer to our accommodation is Okarito Lagoon, home to a great variety of native birds with bird watching and kayaking possibilities.
March 24 & 25: Drive up the West Coast to Punakaki where we will stay in two hand built cabins nestled in the rain forest. We’ll be within an easy walk through rain forest to the beach. A short drive away are Pancake Rocks, kayaking on the Pororari River and many beach and forest walks.
March 26, 27 & 28: Drive on up the West Coast, then inland through the beautiful Bueller River Gorge to Motueka. We spend three nights here, in a two bedroom cottage ten minutes from Golden Bay, Kaiteriteri Beach and Abel Tasman National Park and less than an hour drive from the town of Nelson where art and wine tasting opportunities abound. This area has the most sun and mildest weather on the South Island. Possible activities include hiking, kayaking, mountain biking, boat trips, relaxing on the beach and a day trip to Nelson to explore galleries featuring local artists and taste local wines.
March 29 & 30: Drive to Picton where we catch a water taxi for two nights in a lodge along the Queen Charlotte Track. We will hike a bit of the track, kayak in the bay, lounge in the many hammocks among the ferns overlooking the water and stroll through the sculpture gardens on the grounds. In the evening we will take a short walk to the glowworm dell and perhaps soak in the hot tub.
March 31 & April 1: Drive to Kaikoura where we will spend two nights in a holiday home with an ocean view and pool table in the basement. We will go on a whale watching cruise in Kaikoura, with other possibilities including day walks and fur seal, sea bird and dolphin viewing by kayak.
April 2: On to Hamner Springs for an extended soak in rock pools of natural hot spring waters. We spend one night in a two bedroom townhouse here with balconies overlooking rolling hills.
April 3, 4 & 5: Back to Christchurch for our last three nights in a cottage near city center. We will continue our exploration of Christchurch, attend a Maori cultural performance, and take a drive to the town of Akaroa to celebrate Dianne's Birthday by swimming with dolphins.
April 6: Ed and Colleen head home. Phil and Dianne make a stop in Fiji where their adventure will continue for a few more days.
March 6: Don’t want to talk about it.
March 7: We arrive in Auckland where we have a 6 hour layover, hopefully enough time to take a taxi into town, look around a bit and maybe have dinner. Then we fly on to Christchurch, pick up our rental car and Ed, our designated driver after way too many hours of travel, will try to keep in mind which side of the road to use while driving us to our first night’s accommodation.
March 8: We wake up in our townhouse in downtown Christchurch. We will be within walking distance of Cathedral Square, Botanic Gardens, the Avon River, many art galleries and cultural attractions. We’ll take a walking tour of the city.
March 9 & 10: On to Oamaru, where we will stay for two nights in a backpacker overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Oamaru attractions include a Victorian downtown area built in the late 1800’s of locally quarried limestone, museums and galleries, a historic theatre production and Yellow Eyed and Blue Penguin colonies.
March 11, 12 & 13: Drive along the coast to Dunedin, with a stop at the Moeraki Boulders. We will be staying three nights in a Victorian Villa within walking distance of the historic Scottish influenced downtown area with many gardens, museums, galleries and historic buildings. During our time here we will also explore the Otago Peninsula with Blue and Yellow Eyed Penguins, a Royal Albatross Colony and Lanach Castle and gardens.
March 14: Drive along the wild Catlins Coast with many opportunities for short walks and wildlife viewing. We will spend the night in Invercargill.
March 15 & 16: We leave our rental car behind and fly to Stewart Island for two nights in New Zealand’s southernmost town, Oban. Here we will stay in a holiday home with ocean view, explore the Ulva Island bird sanctuary on a morning tour, then return after dark for a kiwi spotting tour. Other possibilities include hiking and kayaking, or maybe by now we’ll be in need of some time sitting and gazing out over the ocean from our cozy living room.
March 17: Fly back to Invercargill and reclaim our car for the drive to Te Anau, where we’ll spend one night in a motel unit with a view of the lake. In the afternoon, we’ll head across Lake Te Anau on a catamaran for a tour of the glowworm caves.
March 18: We’re up early for the drive to Milford Sound in Fiordlands National Park. We’ll pass breathtaking scenery with many opportunities for short walks and picture taking. We spend the night in Milford, in two riverside chalets. And though we'll be far away from our youngest offspring, today we'll be wishing Stefan our love on his 19th Birthday.
March 19: Up early again for a cruise of Milford Sound where we’ll see steep mountains rising directly up out of the sea, stunning waterfalls that crash down into serene waters and wildlife such as dolphins, seals and penguins in their natural environment. After our morning cruise, we’ll drive back to Te Anau for another night in our motel accommodation. We will call Stefan today to wish him a happy birthday because today in New Zealand is yesterday in California. Happy Birthday Stefan!
March 20 & 21: Drive to Wanaka, a town at the feet of the Southern Alps on the shores of Lake Wanaka and gateway to Mt. Aspiring National Park. We’ll spend two nights here in a holiday home with a mountain view.
March 22 & 23: One of our longest drives, about 4½ hours, and one of the most beautiful, through Haast pass in the Southern Alps to the West Coast. We will be staying two nights in the quiet town of Okarito, population 30-ish (34-ish while we are there.) Within a half hour drive are the more touristy towns of Franz and Fox at the bases of Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers in Westlands National Park. Closer to our accommodation is Okarito Lagoon, home to a great variety of native birds with bird watching and kayaking possibilities.
March 24 & 25: Drive up the West Coast to Punakaki where we will stay in two hand built cabins nestled in the rain forest. We’ll be within an easy walk through rain forest to the beach. A short drive away are Pancake Rocks, kayaking on the Pororari River and many beach and forest walks.
March 26, 27 & 28: Drive on up the West Coast, then inland through the beautiful Bueller River Gorge to Motueka. We spend three nights here, in a two bedroom cottage ten minutes from Golden Bay, Kaiteriteri Beach and Abel Tasman National Park and less than an hour drive from the town of Nelson where art and wine tasting opportunities abound. This area has the most sun and mildest weather on the South Island. Possible activities include hiking, kayaking, mountain biking, boat trips, relaxing on the beach and a day trip to Nelson to explore galleries featuring local artists and taste local wines.
March 29 & 30: Drive to Picton where we catch a water taxi for two nights in a lodge along the Queen Charlotte Track. We will hike a bit of the track, kayak in the bay, lounge in the many hammocks among the ferns overlooking the water and stroll through the sculpture gardens on the grounds. In the evening we will take a short walk to the glowworm dell and perhaps soak in the hot tub.
March 31 & April 1: Drive to Kaikoura where we will spend two nights in a holiday home with an ocean view and pool table in the basement. We will go on a whale watching cruise in Kaikoura, with other possibilities including day walks and fur seal, sea bird and dolphin viewing by kayak.
April 2: On to Hamner Springs for an extended soak in rock pools of natural hot spring waters. We spend one night in a two bedroom townhouse here with balconies overlooking rolling hills.
April 3, 4 & 5: Back to Christchurch for our last three nights in a cottage near city center. We will continue our exploration of Christchurch, attend a Maori cultural performance, and take a drive to the town of Akaroa to celebrate Dianne's Birthday by swimming with dolphins.
April 6: Ed and Colleen head home. Phil and Dianne make a stop in Fiji where their adventure will continue for a few more days.
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